Balancing on a limestone ridge above the River Doubs, Dole is a lovely old city in the north of the Jura Range.
The Holy Roman emperor and Count Burgundy remained in Dole, and it was under their control under the annexation of Louis XIV in 1678 by Louis XIV. Dole’s old center is a confusion of alleyways edged by Renaissance homes with turrets and courtyards. It’s great fun to explore and was also the birthplace of Louis Pasteur, raised in poverty in the tannery quarter by the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. France's second-largest forest, Forêt de Chaux is Dole's back garden and resonates with past occupations such as pottery, charcoal burning, and woodcutting. Discover the best things to do in Dole.
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1. Old Dole
The best thing about Dole is the town’s disorganized jumble of stairways, fountains, passages and tight, winding streets. The tall stone houses pressing in from the sides date back as far as the 16th century, and around 20 are official French historical monuments.
Keep your eyes bright, because often you can peek through an arch into an inner garden, or find a secret curiosity like Fontaine aux Lepreux on Rue Pasteur.
This canal-front street, where Louis Pasteur is born, maybe the prettiest in the city, with a cute footbridge over the water, covered passageways and a riverfront path decorated with flowers.
2. Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dole
The Dole Fine Art Museum assembles archaeological finds from within and near the city, combining painting and sculpture from France, Italy and low nations. The archaeology galleries are in the basement where you can ponder Roman sarcophagi, Merovingian stone carvings and far older artifacts going back to the Palaeolithic Period.
Further is a collection of historical art, which gives you an idea of the kind of wealth booming around Dole in the early modern period. There are works by Baroque painters like Francesco Albani, Simon Vouet, Pieter van Boucle, Master of Saint-Gilles and Valerio Castello.
On the top floor, there is the contemporary art of Muslims, mainly from the Nouveau Réalisme movement founded in the early 1960s.
3. Maison de Louis Pasteur
The world-changing microbiologist was Louis Pasteur was born at this house by the canal in 1822. This is the tanning area, and his father's old leather tools were in the basement as if he was off work all day.
Over eight rooms, the displays inside try to flesh out Pasteur’s background and approach his work via art and symbolism. You’ll get to know the advances he made in immunology, fermentation, and crystallography.
There’s also a small cache of items belonging to Pasteur, including letters and instruments donated to the museum in the 20th century by his grandson.
4. Forêt de Chaux
If you need some spotless properties, Dole will open up the second largest forest in France. This unfurls over 25,000 hectares and has existed in harmony with Dole and the other towns and villages.
The forest fuelled all sorts of trades in the city, including ironwork, glassmaking, and ceramics.
If you’re planning a hike in the forest it’s relatively easy to get around as in 1826 eight Doric columns, each five meters high were installed on the main trails to help woodcutters find their way around.
5. Hôtel-Dieu
If you're in Dole in the summer, call the tourist office to arrange a tour of the 17th-century Hôtel-Dieu hotel. This old hospital was built in a Renaissance style and was the last big building to be completed in Dole before the city was annexed to France.
It was a hospital up 1992 and now houses the city’s archives and library. But there are thrilling traces from the early years of the hospital in the kitchen, bakery, and fermentation room.
Best of all is the apothecary, in vaulted rooms with wooden cabinets and marble fireplaces. There are more than 150 Dole-style earthenware pots for all manner of weird medicines.
6. Collégiale Notre-Dame
The bell-tower of this church climbing above the Doubs is one of the classic images of Dole. It was built during the 1500s after Louis XI destroyed Dole in an attempt to conquer Franche-Comté.
In this century, fiery gothic architecture gave way to the Renaissance, so the church has a mix of two styles. No expenses were spent on the rich furniture, and the region's top artists and craftsmen were hired to work on it.
See a series of paintings in the nave of Laurent Pécheux, Madonna and the Colorful Child of Jean de la Huerta and the marble and iron podium from 1765.
7. Les Baraques du 14
On a walk-in Forêt de Chaux, you can book a course for this village hidden in the woods for hundreds of years. The forest supports a vibrant wood and coal industry that offers various deals in Dole.
And you can see how the jungle lived in a small village of four houses, two bakeries and a beekeeper, dating back to the 16th century. The hamlet is open every afternoon except Monday.
When you get to Dole check in with the tourist office to see if there’s anything going on at the hamlet because in the summertime there’s a calendar of demonstrations, talks, workshops and musical evenings.
8. Grotte d’Osselle
Unusual for a cave network, the SummerSlele Grotte was discovered long ago in the 1200s and people have come to look around since the 1500s. This puts it among the oldest show-caves in the world.
About 50,000 years ago, prehistoric cave bears used these chambers and tunnels, leaving about 3,000 skeletons. These have gone to a host of museums, but there’s a set on show in cases at the caves.
The system has a “wet” section where water has trickled through and formed tortuous and colorful concretions. But there was also a dry room, where people like Voltaire would attend feasts in the 18th century and where missionaries sought refuge in the French Revolution.
9. Les Halles de Dole
Just opposite the Collegiate Church at the top of the city is the marketplace where people have been trading since the 1200s. The covered market was rebuilt several times until 1883 when its current Baltard-style iron and glass hall was completed.
There are four markets a week inside, on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, and even Friday evenings from 17:00. The morning markets are accompanied by outdoor stalls on Place Nationale selling homewares, clothing, handicrafts, and flowers.
Inside, you can sample fruits, vegetables, cheese, meat, charcuterie, freshwater fish and local pastries for Dole.
10. Saline Royale – Arc-et-Senans
On the other side of the Chaux forest is a wonderful remnant from the last years before the French Revolution.
Dating to the 1770s, the Royal Saltworks is a symbol of an onerous tax on salt, which forced people (including children ages eight and up) to buy a certain amount of salt a year at a fixed price.
The building and its complex are stunning, showing the influence of the Enlightenment in its rational geometry and arrangement of the different edifices on the site. On summer evenings the complex is illuminated with magical projections for the Lux Salina sound and light show.
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